A BESPOKE uniform tailors, established 190 years ago, believes its clients’ appetite to buy British is the key to its sustainability in an era of fast fashion. 


Samuel Brothers opened its doors back in 1830 in Ludgate Hill, London, and then opened a premises in Oxford Street in 1915 before moving to two other locations within the city. 


At the turn of the last century the company was reputed to have been one of the largest exporters of uniforms in Europe, with made-to-measure garments being shipped as far afield as the White House, in Washington.


When the First World War broke out, the company focused on military attire and produced the first waterproof coats for British Army officers. 


The company was later based in Leeds, “the home of the textiles industry”, until the current managing director Lee Dawson relocated the company to Parkeston where it is still based today. 


Mr Dawson took the reins of the company 13 years ago following a career within the military as a sergeant major. 


The 52-year-old said he used to buy uniforms from the company and on leaving the army, he saw the opening role of managing director as a fitting business opportunity. 


“I knew nothing about business or tailoring, but I knew the clientele and what they wanted,” he said.


After hearing Bernard’s Uniform Factory in Harwich had fallen into receivership Mr Dawson visited the site to see what machinery was there and met the staff.


It was then that he decided to move Samuel Brothers from Leeds to Parkeston in 2007. 


Mr Dawson said: “We have trebled the number of staff in the past ten years from four to 17.


“We are still actively recruiting and I have commitment to an apprenticeship scheme to hire apprentices. 


“I also work closely with the Colchester Institute and we try and recruit local people. 


“The furtherest staff member is from Clacton, but I think the rest walk or cycle to work and I am keen to maintain that. 


“It’s very much a family environment, but what we are struggling with is to get people who want the job to come to Parkeston. 


“We do work with students from the London College of Fashion, but people don’t want to move to the Harwich area for an apprenticeship.”


Mr Dawson explained the importance of learning practical skills, and wants to encourage youngsters to learn to tailor, or become apprentices in a trade. 


He said: “We have tailored for the Queen, and we make uniforms for heads of state, the Ministry of Defence, and we also export uniforms to the commonwealth.”


 In 2017 the company was appointed with a Royal Warrant as tailors to the Queen.


Mr Dawson said the business has built a reputation for its high quality tailoring. 


He said: “I think there is an appetite to buy British and we are a niche business and that is attractive to clients who want something special to wear.”


To keep the business sustainable Mr Dawson said it will be important to keep manufacturing in the UK. 


He said: “Businesses which come out of recessions will have a strong manufacturing army. 


“But companies can’t compete with Bangladeshi prices as we don’t pay Bangladeshi wages.


“What I stand by is if you buy cheap, you buy twice. 


“We have people wearing the same uniform or suit they brought from us for the past 20 years.”


Mr Dawson, who lives in Hampshire, has credited his staff as the driving force behind the company’s growth at a time where fast fashion is rife. 


He said: “Harwich is a great place for us as a company and there are good people - and good people are very difficult to find. 


“Why I decided to move it from Yorkshire to Harwich was for the people, and it is the people who make the business and I am so proud of what we have achieved.”